Maheshwar, MP, India

Maheshwar 

Maheshwar is a true jewel of MP Tourism and of the incredible India. It is located on the banks of Narmada and is only one and half hours’ drive from Indore. Best time to travel to Maheshwar is in winter. In summer the stones of the forts and Temples make it difficult to move around.

Maheshwar is famous for the Saintly, Philosopher female ruler Ahilyabai, the magnificent fort, Ahilyabai’s spartan residence, beautiful Temples and the world famous Maheshwar Sarees. 

Maheshwar’s history dates back from the times of “Ramayana” and “Mahabharata”. It was then called Mahishmati. It is said that Sahastrarjun’s (who had 1000 hands) 500 wives wanted to play. So Sahastrarjun, with his mighty hands, stopped the flow of the river Narmada and the riverbed became dry. At that time Ravana wanted to pray to Lord Shiva. He found the dry bed of Narmada and wanted to pray there. He created a Shiv Linga in sand and started praying there. 

Then the queens finished their play and so Sahastrarjun let Narmada flow again. The onrush of water disturbed the prayer of Ravana and so he went after Sahastrarjun. There was a fight and Ravana was defeated. Sahastrarjun lit lamps on ten heads of Ravana and one on his hand.  They say that the practice of lighting eleven lamps in the temple started then. Similarly there are tales from Mahabharata mentioning Maheshwar..

One of the key attractions in Maheshwar is the Rajrajeshwar Temple complex. In the complex there are Temples of Sahastrarjun, Shiva, Ganapati with Riddhi / Siddhi, Ram Laxman and Sita etc. The  architecture and colour of each of these Temples is different. The Temples are beautiful. In one of the Temples 11 flames have been kept continuously lit for the past few centuries.

The fort and the various structures within the complex are beautiful. They have used stones of different colours - yellowish ochre, gray etc. In the construction of the fort. The architecture is gorgeous. Building styles are lovely. There is extensive carving on the stone facades. One of the carved panels shows a convict receiving capital punishment (for heinous crimes) under the feet of elephants.

The fort is by the side of river Narmada. There are ghats near the river which makes it easier to descend to the river on the steps of the ghats. Narmada is one of the seven holy rivers of India. Narmada is one of the few west flowing rivers of India.

Narmada is pretty wide at Maheshwar and the flow is quiet and serene..There are many boats which take you on a short cruise in the river for a small fee. Within the river there is small island which houses the temple of Baneshwar. 

During Monsoon the Narmada river swells and many of the Temples on the ghat get submerged.

It is said that Emperor Akbar built a fort here in Maheshwar in the 16th century; the fort was taken over by Malhar Rao Holkar in the 18th century. When Ahilya Bai Holkar came to power in 1767, she shifted the capital of the territory from Indore to Maheshwar.

It is said that Malhar Rao saw her as a nine year old girl and was impressed by her. He got her married to his son Khanderao. After Khanderao’s death, Ahilyabai wanted to go as sati. Malhar Rao pleaded to her and dissuaded her from that. After Malhar Rao’s death, Ahilya Bai became the queen.

Ahilyabai ruled during 1767-1795 and her rule was famous for being just, happy and peaceful for the people. She lived a very simple life herself. Carried lot of projects all over India. She led in battles and used diplomacy to avoid wars where possible..There is a lot to learn from this great ruler.

We also visited Sahastra Dhara (thousand streams) where the great Narmada flows over a rocky bed - which splits the river into multiple streams. There is a short waterfall at the location. The streams gleaming in sunlight is a truly lovely scene. Wished I had a drone to explore the beauty of the streams and the place. 

Near Sahastra Dhara is a temple to single headed Dattatreya. This temple is one of the four being constructed in four corners of India. The temple has a massive courtyard but had very few worshippers.

We came face to face with the “Narmada Parikramis” who are among the most tenacious of the pilgrims anywhere in the world. They walk the entire length, on both flanks of river Narmada,  from its origin at Amarkantak to where it meets the Arabian Sea, covering a distance of 2600 kms on foot. The parikramis travel on foot with meagre belongings. They are revered by the common folk for the arduous task they have undertaken and so are happy to meet their needs such as food and shelter.

The tradition of Maheshwari Sarees and the weaving art dates back to 5th century AD. During Ahilyabai’s reign, she invited weavers from Gujarat and Karnataka to come and settle down in Maheshwar. In recent times the descendent of the ruling Holkar family - Richard Holkar took up the cause of poor weavers. He formed a cooperative for them, with a view to get them better Compensation for their work. Richard Holkar is the Son of the last Maharaja of Indore - Yeshwant Rao Holkar and his American Wife. We saw the Rehwa Society, founded by Richard Holkar, which works for the hand loom weavers of Maheshwar.

Maheshwar is a small and clean town. It will leave a lasting impression on you..